Andrea Collins, LE, licensed esthetician at Royal Esthetics in Jacksonville, Florida examining a skincare product for a Beneath the Crown article about professional home care and choosing the right skincare products.
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Skincare Tips

Stop Buying Skincare Like its a Treasure Hunt

By Andrea
September 6, 2026

Ladies, we need to have a little conversation.

And I’m saying this with love. 😂

You’ll walk into TJ Maxx or Marshalls, see a pretty bottle of retinol sitting on the shelf for $12.99 and think, Ohhhh, I’ve heard retinol is good.

Into the cart it goes.

Never mind that you don’t know the percentage. You don’t know whether that particular formulation is appropriate for your skin. You don’t know how often to use it, what shouldn’t be used with it, or where it belongs in the routine.

But baby, it was $12.99.

Then TikTok tells you that glycolic acid is the secret to glowing skin.

Into the routine it goes.

Somebody else says you need exfoliating toner pads.

Add those too.

Meanwhile, your cleanser already contains an exfoliating acid.

So now we’ve got the exfoliating cleanser, toner pads, another acid serum, retinol and whatever else TikTok convinced us we absolutely needed before Tuesday.

Then you come sit in my treatment room.

Your skin is irritated. It’s tight. It’s reactive. Maybe you’re breaking out. The dark spots seem like they’re getting darker. Products that never bothered you before suddenly sting.

And when I start explaining that we may need to remove some things from your routine rather than add another product…

You look at me like I’m the one who has lost her mind.

Ma’am. 😂

We have got to talk.

Your Skin Doesn’t Care How Much You Paid for It

One of the biggest misconceptions I see is the idea that more products equal better skincare.

They don’t.

And neither does a more aggressive routine.

Your skin isn’t sitting there keeping score:

Cleanser? Check.

Exfoliating pad? Check.

Glycolic acid? Check.

Retinol? Check.

Scrub on Sunday for a little razzle-dazzle? Check.

Meanwhile, your skin barrier is somewhere waving a white flag.

Your skin barrier is part of your body’s protective defense system. When it’s functioning well, it helps keep water in and irritants out.

When you repeatedly hit your skin with more exfoliation and active ingredients than it can tolerate, that barrier can become compromised.

And here’s where things get interesting: the symptoms people are trying to treat can sometimes become worse because of the way they’re treating them.

Dryness. Burning. Stinging. Redness. Increased sensitivity. Flaking. Breakouts. Irritation.

And for those of us who are prone to hyperpigmentation, unnecessary inflammation is especiallysomething I don’t want us casually creating.

Sometimes your skin doesn’t need another active.

It needs you to stop bothering it.

Retinol Isn’t the Problem. Your Routine Might Be.

Now, Auntie is not taking away your retinol. 😂

Retinoids can be incredibly useful in a thoughtfully constructed skincare routine. Exfoliating acids can also be useful. There is absolutely a place for professional exfoliation.

The problem is not necessarily the ingredient.

The problem is using powerful ingredients without understanding how they fit together.

If you’re using an exfoliating cleanser, exfoliating toner pads, an AHA or BHA serum and a retinol—and you’re using everything frequently because you’re trying to get results faster—you aren’t necessarily creating a more effective routine.

You may simply be creating more opportunities for irritation.

And this is where professional guidance matters.

It’s not just knowing what an ingredient does.

It’s knowing:

Does your skin need it?

At what strength?

How frequently?

What else are you already using?

What is your skin trying to tell us right now?

And what are we actually trying to correct?

That’s a very different conversation from “TikTok said this was good for dark spots.”

And While We’re Here: Please Stop Self-Diagnosing Your Skin

I understand why we do it.

We have access to more skincare information than we’ve ever had before. You can search one symptom and have 400 videos explaining what supposedly happened to your face before you’ve finished your morning coffee.

Some of that information is excellent.

Some of it is incomplete.

Some of it doesn’t apply to your skin.

And some of it is coming from someone whose primary qualification is having excellent lighting and 2.4 million followers.

Social media can teach you about ingredients.

It cannot examine your skin.

It doesn’t know your treatment history. It doesn’t know what you’re currently using. It doesn’t know how frequently you’re using it. It doesn’t know your tolerance level or what happened after you introduced your last three products.

And most importantly, your skin is not the skin in that 30-second video.

That’s why professional skincare isn’t simply someone handing you an expensive bottle.

The value should be in the assessment, education, strategy and ongoing adjustment.

The Slow Approach Isn’t Sexy. It Works.

This is probably the hardest part of corrective skincare.

Everybody wants the dark spot gone yesterday.

Everybody wants the breakout cleared before next weekend.

Everybody wants the fine lines softened immediately.

So when I say:

“We’re going to start here.”

“Use this a few nights a week.”

“Let’s get your barrier settled first.”

“No, I don’t want you adding three more actives right now.”

It can feel like we’re not doing enough.

But slow does not mean ineffective.

A controlled routine gives us something extremely valuable: information.

When we introduce products strategically, we can see how your skin responds. If irritation develops, we have a much better chance of identifying the culprit. If your skin improves, we know what’s contributing.

When you start six products simultaneously?

Girl, now we’re all detectives. 🕵🏾‍♀️

We don’t know what’s working, what’s irritating you or what needs to go.

Professional Skincare Isn’t About Taking Away Your Choices

And I want to be very clear about this.

I don’t expect my clients to blindly do whatever I say simply because I’m the esthetician.

I want you educated.

Ask me why.

Ask me what an ingredient does.

Ask me why I’m recommending one product instead of another.

Ask me why I’m telling you to stop something you’ve been using for two years.

A good professional skincare relationship should make you more knowledgeable about your skin, not dependent on somebody else’s opinion.

But there is a difference between asking informed questions and paying a professional to assess your skin while simultaneously deciding that TikTok has already rendered the verdict. 😂

If you’ve invested in professional help, let us build the plan together.

Before You Buy Another Product, Ask Yourself This

Do I know why I’m buying this?

What specific concern am I trying to address?

Do I already own another product that does essentially the same thing?

Does this work with the rest of my routine?

Am I adding this because my skin needs it—or because somebody convinced me that everybody needs it?

And perhaps most importantly:

Is my skin actually asking for more…or is it asking me to calm down?

Because beautiful skin isn’t built by throwing every trending ingredient at your face.

It’s built through strategy, consistency, patience, protection and knowing when enough is enough.

You don’t need to win skincare.

You need a routine that makes sense for your skin.

And if your bathroom counter currently looks like the skincare aisle at TJ Maxx?

Come see me.

We’ll talk. No judgment.

But you may have to hand over the exfoliating pads. 😂



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